Alphane 2nd Ascent, Burden of Dreams & Training Strategies: The Aidan Roberts Interview
HOT OFF THE PRESS! Aidan Roberts just climbed Alphane, a 9A in Chironico this week, so we got him to sit down with Tom Randall interview to discuss the news, the process and Aidan’s history with this line. This is the second ascent after Shawn Raboutou, and one of the few 9A/V17s in the world right now. The interview is broken down into sections few, which should give everyone something to go away with, whether you’re in the double digits yourself or you’re interested in what process someone goes through to work towards a project at their limit. The big areas we discuss:The history of Alphane and Aidan’s first seasonHow he prepared for this past Switzerland tripHis thoughts on the line and what he’s up to nextQ&A session with Lattice audienceSpecific topics and questions covered:When did he first try the problemWho did he try it with and how did they climb/project? How his first trip went and what he learntHow he prepared with his coach, Ollie Torr, for his follow tripWhat ‘on the wall’ and ‘off the wall’ training he usedHis thoughts on teaming up with Will Bosi for a ‘Team Trip.’How the project sessions broke down, and what approaches they both usedThe send goHis next projects in Switzerland and ‘Alphane Right Hand’ lineHow he balances repeats vs FAsHis historic approach to mileage vs projecting. Which does he do more?What training has had the biggest impact ‘on rock’ for himHow much a week he trainsHow long does he rest between burnsWhat degree of ‘perfection’ does he look for in a move before making linksHis thoughts on Burden of Dreams, Isles Sit Start & SuperpowerWhat’s harder than Alphane? Is anything flying under the radar?The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.