Bolting: How Safe is Your Bolt?
This episode of Mountain Voices explores the safety and ethics of climbing bolts. In part 1 renowned Swiss climber and guide Stephan Siegrist and International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation CEO André von Rotz explore the bolting culture in Switzerland, notably the importance of preserving historic routes, and introduce the Swiss Rebolting Project.In part two, von Rotz is joined by UIAA Safety Commission members Fred Campos and Per Forsberg who delve into the science of bolt corrosion—particularly the hidden dangers of stress corrosion cracking in humid and coastal environments.In recent years, the UIAA has dedicated significant investment, some 200,000 euros and counting, primarily to research related to rock anchors and bolts. Initially, this centred around the subject of corrosion and stress corrosion cracking failure. A significant milestone was reached when the updated UIAA Rock Anchors Standard was released in 2020. While bolt failures are rare, the consequences can be severe, underscoring the importance of using corrosion-tested gear, like that certified under the UIAA’s 123 Standard. The panel discusses the ambition behind the “Bolts That Last a Century” initiative, which aims to preserve both safety and rock integrity for future generations.Discover more about the UIAA’s work in climber safety and rock anchors:https://www.theuiaa.org/safety/https://www.theuiaa.org/safety/rockanchors/Support the UIAA’s research into climber safety by making a donation:https://www.theuiaa.org/donate/ Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.